And the rhythm of the rails is all they feel

We had a delightful train trip from Naves to Oviedo, 58 miles. It was on a train they call the “FEVE”, part of RENFE, the Spanish rail company. It has some aspects of metro that serves rural areas and towns all along the north coast in Spain. We have taken the FEVE before and just love it.

The train goes mostly through forests and farmland, along rivers and streams, by high mountains and smaller hills, through tiny towns and larger towns, past people’s back yards — basically everything we love about Spain.

We love the gentle beat of the rails. It makes you feel relaxed. And all the greenery you pass adds to the mood. The trip was two hours and 40 minutes and we didn’t look at our phones at all, it was too entertaining to watch the world go by.

The conductor did not “sing his songs again” like in “City of New Orleans” but he was very nice and helped us with the train switch in the middle.

We passed lots of cows and horses in the fields and saw, again, lots of calves and colts.

We went along a wide (30-40 feet) river with lots of canoes and kayaks and one big launching place with over a hundred people in wet suits getting ready to take off. I couldn’t get any good shots from the train. You can see the canoes if you tap and photo and enlarge it. You can also see my hand reflected in the glass.

Steve Goodman “City of New Orleans”: one of the best train songs ever, Arlo Guthrie has a killer version.

Riding on the City of New Orleans
Illinois Central, Monday morning rail
15 cars and 15 restless riders
Three conductors, 25 sacks of mail

All along the southbound odyssey
The train pulls out of Kankakeei
Rolls along past houses, farms, and fields
Passing trains that have no name
An’ freight yards full of old black men
And the graveyards of the rusted automobiles

Good morning, America, how are ya?
Said don’t you know me? I’m your native son
I’m the train they call the City of New Orleans
I’ll be gone 500 miles when the day is done

Dealing card games with the old men in the club car
Penny a point, ain’t no one keeping score
Pass the paper bag that holds the bottle
Feel the wheels rumbling ‘neath the floor

And the sons of Pullman porters
And the sons of engineers
Ride their fathers’ magic carpets made of steel
Mothers with their babes asleep
Are rockin’ to the gentle beat
And the rhythm of the rails is all they feel

Good morning, America, how are ya?
Said don’t you know me? I’m your native son
I’m the train they call the City of New Orleans
I’ll be gone 500 miles when the day is done

Nighttime on the City of New Orleans
Changing cars in Memphis, Tennessee
Halfway home, we’ll be there by morning
Through the Mississippi darkness, rolling down to the sea

But all the towns and people seem to fade into a bad dream
And the steel rail still ain’t heard the news
The conductor sings his songs again
The passengers will please refrain
This train got the disappearing railroad blues

Good night, America, how are you?
Said don’t you know me? I’m your native son
I’m the train they call the City of New Orleans
I’ll be gone 500 miles when the day is done

Yet another day in photos. Llanes to Naves.

We walked 9.4 miles today. 1951 feet elevation gain and 1892 elevation lost. Max elevation was 1332 feet and minimum was -13 feet (but I don’t recall ever being under water — these stats come from Charlie’s tracking app). Most of it was on country paths. Most of it was inland but very near the coast. We did get to walk some right along the water.
We had breakfast in Póo, about 1-1/2 miles into our walk. Counter food and excellent coffee.
Always great to walk out of the woods to a view like this.
We met a friendly donkey. He totally resembled Eeyore. Appropriate for just outside Poo (but pronounced POH-oh).
And a thrill to go around the corner and see this sight. A beautiful church on the other side of the ria. Capilla de San Roque.
We ended up walking through the woods behind the church. Here it is a little closer.
The Camino took us across the sand on this little beach. (Not sure what happens at high tide.)
We took a selfie at the next brush with the ocean.
Now at our hotel blogging. We decided the bar was too cold. No other place to go in this tiny town.

4/30 WynChar Diary

We walked 9.2 miles in six hours with the usual ups and down. It was beautiful again. The hotel breakfast was very good with some killer pastries. A couple from Virginia was also staying at our hotel so we chatted with them at breakfast. We said we were from Albuquerque and guess what, they mentioned Breaking Bad.

We saw a lot of pilgrims today. And by “saw” I mean they passed us. Except for one group of young people. Normally the young ones breeze past us and they are out of sight in a minute but this group was very slow and kept stopping to look at their phones. I guess they were seeing how their social media was liking their Camino.

Early morning, heading out of Pendueles, young pilgrims ahead engrossed in their phones

We saw the usual cows ignoring the great views they had and lots of calves following their mothers around.

We love the cows

A lot of beautiful ocean views, ho hum.

The day in photos

It was a pretty hike. Most of it on non-paved paths like this one. We are seeing lots of pilgrims.
Eucalyptus grove
We emerged from the woods to see this little beach. A mandatory stopping place for pilgrims. We stopped here in 2018 but kept going this year.
It was a hard hike today in that there were no places to stop and rest our feet and use the restroom for a very long way. At about 6 miles, we finally came to this tiny grocery store and it had tables out front! We bought some cold water and olives and peanuts. Threw in some raisins we already had and had an excellent break. Except, there was no restroom.
Finally, a mile or so later, a bar! Good coffee, good restrooms. Some pilgrims. Some locals (old guys).
Not too long before we got to Llanes, we came to an overlook down to a beautiful beach. Maybe next week we’ll come back and walk down to this beach.
Finally got into Llanes. Was just starting to rain. This is our pension for the night (Pension La Guia). We checked in around 2:30, headed for lunch, then headed for the laundromat.
Two doors down from our pension is this bar. Enclosed terrace. Rain pouring on the roof. Little fireplace making it all cozy. This is where we are as I type this.

4/29 WynChar Diary

Miles: 8.4 miles, 13 to 400 feet, up 673 feet, down 545 feet, 6 hours on the trail including stops for breakfast and, later, cold drinks
Mexican restaurants: 1
Breakfasts eaten: 2 each
Difficult-on-the-knees climbing gates to get over: 3 or 4
Blue albergues: 1
Italian pilgrims met: 2

Young Italian man just ahead of us on the moor trail

Another day of beautiful views, this time going right by the ocean looking down 100 feet cliffs to the surf crashing against the rocks.

Our hotel included breakfast this morning but (1) the coffee wasn’t too good, Wynette didn’t even finish hers and (2) it was a minimal pastry and juice-type breakfast. So, we stopped after about 3 miles and had eggs and toast.

When we were checking into our hotel tonight, the woman said she had immigrated from the Dominican Republic with her family when she was 16. She mentioned how “tranquil” Spain was compared to the Dominican Republic. Spain is a very safe country, a stable democracy and has a good economy. We have often thought that young people from Central and South America should consider moving to Spain since there would be no language problem. Spain, like all the first world countries has a low birth rate and needs more people.

Surfaces along the way 1/6

I mentioned in an earlier post how varied each day is in terms of surfaces we walked on. Today I tried to get a photo of each change. It is more than surfaces, it the variety you see each day. Think of it as a day in the life of a pilgrim.

It is a lot of photos so I will divide them up to about eight per each post. All of the photos can be enlarged by tapping or clicking on them and from there you can go through larger photos of the whole gallery.

I will post these in backwards order so that you can scroll through them in the correct chronological order, top to bottom

We started out in Unquera, on the busy Main Street
We crossed the bridge over the ria that divides Cantabria from Asturias, these are roughly like states.
Up a steep road. On the Norte towns are at sea level and you always climb a steep hill at the start of the day
The hill leveled off and switched to this
Transition to asphalt
Going out of town

Surfaces 4/6

Cross the railroad tracks
And cross the first of four climb-over gates. Hard for Wynette with her bad knee but she did them all
Easy trail to the cliffs
Now the trail goes west along the ocean
The trail goes right up the the cliff edge
The trail gets harder through the rocks and the gorse ( very prickly)
The views are thrilling
The view to the west

Surfaces 5/6

Oh-oh another cattle gate
The gets harder, then even harder after this, no photo
Be sure to go around the cow flops
Then a little easier
We walked past a bufone, a tunnel in the cliffs where you can hear the surf booming, very impressive
Past the cows (no fences between us)
And the bull (luckily he was behind a fence)
Over another fence. This was harder than it looks.