Day: April 15, 2025

In case you had any questions. And another cute graphic.

• Camino walking Baiona to Nigrán: 8.1 miles in 4:36 hours, moving 2:46
• Elevation: up 100 feet, down 265 feet, not much up and down. 17 flights of stairs.
• Total walking: 8.99 miles
• Rain: off and on all day. Last night it poured most of the night. We were on the top floor of our pension and every time I woke up I heard it on the roof. It did rain a lot of the day but not as hard as it did last night.
• Boardwalks: maybe a mile
• Coffee stops: 2; grocery store stops: 2; restaurants: 1. We like to get fried eggs and toast but lots of bars don’t offer that. We ended up in a gastrobar and had a fancy bagel with scrambled eggs and hollandaise sauce and avocado toast with a poached egg and hollandaise sauce — both very good. And the coffee was good too.

Last night, in our pension, our room was on the top floor. During the night we heard the rain pounding hard on the roof. Much harder than anything we’ve had to walk through. It came off and on. I was trying to imagine how our raincoats would hold up to such an intense downpour.

But, so far, the rain, in Spain, … falls a lot harder at night. (Couldn’t think of a way to make that rhyme.) We did walk in quite a bit of rain today but it wasn’t nearly as heavy as it had been during the night. It was very off and on. When it would stop raining the sun would come out and we were sure it had cleared for the day and then, sometimes minutes later, it would get very dark and more rain would fall.

We were so lucky, though: it wasn’t windy like yesterday. We were able to layer enough to stay warm enough.

Our walk was a little shorter than usual and was a pretty walk mostly along water: first the Atlantic, then a ria, and then the ocean again. Our hotel for tonight is on the water. Hostal Montevideo Beachfront. It’s a humble little place but has ocean views. And Maria who checked us in was a hoot. I’ve been using the name “Dorothy” for reservations on this trip since it’s a lot easier for the Spanish to understand than “Wynette”. Maria told us that her mother’s name was Dorothy. (I’m guessing probably Dorothea.) I told her that Charlie’s and my mom both were named Dorothy. Maria exclaimed “Que casualidad!” which thrilled me to understand her and to remember that “casualidad” is a false cognate in Spanish that means “coincidence”.

After we got to our room, we rested a bit and then walked to a nearby restaurant (tapas bar). We filled up on two huge salads and a large empanada filled with greens and chorizo.

The restaurant was pretty full when we got here but it has mostly cleared out so we stayed to do our daily email catch-up and blogging.