Day: April 26, 2025

Using a local direction sign and adding a yellow Camino arrow. Looks a little odd but makes perfect sense.

Wynette crossing on the streams.

The old, beloved Camino yellow arrows are being replaced by more modern signs.

The Galicians love their horreos. In this trip we have seen ones with thatched roofs, which we had not seen before. This is a small decorative one but we have seen full-sized ones with thatched roofs. We heard that old, authentic ones are valuable, with up to $20,000 or more.

Yet another style of nutcracker.

Wanna buy a lake property in Galicia? It looks made-made. We heard a loud chorus of frogs as we were passing by. One phone number for locals and another for international buyers.

A beautiful field we passed.

On the trail.

A pilgrim rest and vending area with nice tables and benches. It even had, on the left, a microwave and a toaster oven. The sign said feel free to use the facilities even if you don’t buy anything.

• Camino walking: O Cádavo to Lugo, 6.4 miles in 3:35 hours, moving 2:32
• Elevation: up 607 feet, down 807 feet, from 1463 to 1942 feet
• A fairly short day. We walked six miles and then called a taxi to get us into Lugo, avoiding some major up and down into the city. The walk was again very nice, through farmland and past many streams. They sure have a lot of water in Galicia!
• We passed an albergue that we had had a reservation in but canceled when we changed our plans. When we got to the place we checked if it was open and took a photo of it because it had a nice logo. Apparently the owner noticed this and came out and ask us what we wanted. Wynette said a coffee and he said come on in. So we had another place that opened up early just for us.
• We saw quite a number of pilgrims today.
• We’re back in Lugo for two days. It has an ancient Roman wall that you can walk on all the way around, 1.4 miles. Apparently it is the only completely intact Roman city wall and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was great fun walking all around it.
• Total miles walked today (Camino plus wall plus around town) per Wynette’s watch: 11.45. Equivalent flights of stairs climbed: 64. That includes 3 to get up onto the top of the wall.
• We’re in Spain so we had another Indian food lunch. It was a set menu and was so massive we are skipping dinner.

We had made a reservation to stay in a private room in the albergue pictured above but cancelled it a day or two before because we couldn’t get some clear information we needed about the reservation. (They seemed to be the world’s worst communicators.)

We ended up sleeping a few miles before this place, where we blogged last night. We were glad for the change, but when we walked by the albergue today, we were curious about where we might have stayed and, also, we were hoping they’d be open to sell us coffee and a bathroom. When we got there we tried the door (locked) and looked in the window (dark inside). So we took a photo and started to move on. Then … a man came out from further down the street and asked why we were there. I guess he’d seen us looking in the window. I didn’t tell him we were the people who cancelled, but asked if there was a bar in town. He thought for a second and then said “follow me” and led us away from the albergue. At first, we thought he was inviting us into his house. He opened some large doors and indicated we should go in. It was not a public bar but evidently the bar/cafe that was associated with the albergue. (It’s not surprising it was closed. Albergues tend to kick the pilgrims out early and close early.)

We were able to order coffees, water, use the bathroom, plan the rest of our day.

He was gruff but nice at the same time.

While we were there, he’d left the door open and several other pilgrims came in after us. He served them as well.