Asparagus: white or green?

When we order the mixed salad here it almost always comes with white asparagus. I’m sure we’ve shown some salad photos with it. We don’t like it, kind of mushy. Green asparagus is harder to transport and has to be picked before it goes to seed. We heard it was grown underground. Betty, last night, mentioned how they grow it.

They just cover it with black plastic.

Today we were chatting with a guy from Oxford and related the story. He said he did not know there was green asparagus. So it must not be common in the UK either.

So I have to relate my favorite, and only, asparagus joke. At a dinner with shared food a plate of (green) asparagus was being passed down. On getting the plate a woman took a knife and sliced off all the tips and put them on her plate. The next person was shocked and asked why she had done that. She said, “Oh, the tips are the best part, didn’t you know?”

EU routes

The yellow arrow is, of course, the Camino marker. The white over red blaze is a marker for a GR route. The GR routes are all over Europe and several follow the various Caminos.

This year we started seeing these along the Camino

I am referring to the bicycle-1-3-arrow part. I left the rest of the sign for interest. It seems the EU has a number of long bicycle routes. They must be fairly recent since we have not seen these before. Some follow the Camino, like the GRs.

Making sure the perigrinos know this.

EuroVelo 1 is the Atlantic Coast Route, running from Norway down to Portugal.

EuroVelo 3 is the Pilgrims Route, which follows historic pilgrimage paths from Trondheim, Norway all the way to Santiago de Compostela.

Did I say “long”? I meant “looooooooong”.

More signs

Stickers
Stickers
Stickers defaced the wine museum sign but they couldn’t touch this huge sign for the wine fountain, coming soon to a blog post near you
The marker for the site of Estella’s medieval synagogue
Marker in the weeds, with lots of yellow arrows
We have shown examples of stones left on markers but what if the Camino sign is attached to a wall?

April 13: (Mostly) Walking Day, Larrasoaña to Pamplona

Miles walked: 9.6 miles

Floors climbed: 67

We had a small breakfast provided by our B&B (Casa Tau). A mile or so past Larrasoaña we passed Hotel Akeretta which was where we stayed on our Camino in 2013 and found out, after we had checked in, that it was the hotel where Martin Sheen stayed in the movie “The Way”. If you’ve seen the movie it was where Martin Sheen met the blond woman from Canada and where he caught the hotel owner pretending to be a bull fighter.

As mentioned in my previous post, I got behind in my daily logs.  Shoot, it’s hard to remember all I’d like to remember about the day.  I do remember we were concerned about all we had to do when we got to Pamplona: 1) Go to an optical shop so I could replace a broken ear piece on my reading/computer glasses. 2) Reorganize all our stuff and mail a small suitcase to our endpoint (Sahagún which is half way to Santiago). It held things we only needed on the plane.  3) Do laundry. 4) Buy Kleenex and cough drops (my sore throat had turned into a cold).

On the edge of Pamplona we decided to catch a taxi to shorten the day’s walk a bit and get to our errands. We had stopped in a bar for coffee and an amazingly helpful woman in the bar called a taxi for us and then walked us to the place to meet the taxi since we were in a pedestrian area.

We got to our hotel (Hotel Yoldi) and checked in and headed up to our room.  On the elevator, uh oh, Charlie realized he didn’t have his phone.  We remembered he’d had it out on the taxi so figured he probably left it there.  But, we couldn’t call the taxi driver since we hadn’t called him ourselves.  We rushed back to the front desk and asked them to call the bar where they’d called the taxi.  We were panicking and not thinking clearly. The hotel desk person suggested the obvious thing: Why don’t you call your phone? We did and the taxista answered!  He was rather far away by then but he brought it to us when he was nearer to our part of town  It cost us an additional 7 euro taxi fare!  Worth it!

We had a nice lunch in the hotel restaurant while waiting for the phone to show up.  Then headed out for our errands.

Hotel Akeretta
Somewhere along the way
Charlie got his phone back! Whew!
Running of the bulls statue in Pamplona

April 18: Walking Day Villamayor de Monjardin to Los Arcos

Miles walked: 8.3

Flights of stairs climbed (equivalent): 22

As you can see, there was only 1/5 as much elevation gain as yesterday so a fairly flat walk today. There was a lot of downhill at the beginning and then it was gently rolling hills. Gentler than usual. Nice!

There are no towns between V de M and LA so that made the walk seem long. But there was a food truck with chairs and benches so we were able to get a cold drink, an orange, and rest our feet a bit. The food truck didn’t have a bathroom and it was wide open country so … I had to be creative to find a place on the trail.

Our wonderful hosts from our B&B last night were Bert and Betty. Betty was an amazing cook. And possibly the nicest person I’ve ever met. Bert and Betty are from the Netherlands but moved to Villamayor de Monjardin about 13 years ago and worked in the albergue there. Then 3 years ago they bought this B&B, Casa Rural Montedeio.
Betty’s vegetable tart. I’ve never eaten anything like it.
Bert making breakfast for us this morning. I asked him about the bread machine (right). He said they make fresh sour dough bread every day for the guests. We had it for breakfast, it was still warm. OK, if you ever get a chance to go to Spain, go to this B&B!!!
Our room in the B&B.
Heading out this morning.
Looking back at Villamayor de Monjardin. There is a castle at the top of the hill. Built in 5th century. Bert said there is a little church inside it and twice a year all the people in the village (population approx. 100) walk to the top and have a church service there.
Steady stream of pilgrims.
In Los Arcos we ate at the restaurant across from our hotel. A delicious menu. Unfortunately it’s Saturday and the menus almost double in price on the weekend. But, it was worth it. First course, beans and mixed salad. Both were outstanding. The Spanish make such good beans and fresh salads. For second course we had chicken and trout.
We have windows in our hotel room. And a huge balcony. We are in a regular hotel. Very comfortable. Now sitting in the hotel bar blogging.

April 12: Travel and Walking Day, Lintzoain to Larrasoaña

Post by Wynette:

Taxiing: about 4.5 miles

Walking: 3.6 miles, 2 hours and 23 minutes, up 427 feet, down 531 feet

Note by Wynette: I started this post several days ago and then ran into problems uploading the photos. It took a couple of days for us to resolve this problem, plus we had a couple of very busy days. I got behind on our daily logs. I hope to slowly fill them all in! Of course, the dates are going to appear out of order.

The stretch of walking leaving Linzoain is famous for being treacherous when wet.  Extremely steep downhill, rocky, muddy, and slippery. Much discussion about it on the Camino forum we read. Weather forecast was for overnight rain, 100% chance, for several hours.  Charlie and I decided we didn’t want to risk it. So … we called a taxi to take us around that section.  Of course, it might have been the first time we’ve ever seen here when it didn’t rain when there was any rain at all in the forecast.  But, I didn’t mind missing that section, even if it didn’t rain much after all. 

We told the taxi driver, “Take us to the closest bar to the Camino in Zubiri.” We had a nice coffee there and then headed out, starting on the Camino at Puente de la Rabia where supposedly people would take their rabid animals to be cured (by walking around it somehow, even though the bridge is over a good-sized river, at least by New Mexico standards).

This was a life-size photo in the bar where we had coffee in Zubiri. I imagine it was taken during the time Franco controlled Spain.
Starting the day’s walk at Puente de la Rabia in Zubiri.
This beautiful old church was on the Camino not far from Zubiri. Locked up tight. See next photo for details.
Details about the above church. 12th century Romanesque. I would have loved to see that 13th century painted alterpiece.
It did rain off and on. We were glad to have our rain coats for that but also to stay warm. It was a chilly day.