The town name is famous for its three lies: it’s not holy (Santi-) nor particularly flat (llana) and several kilometers from the sea. Sartre said it was “le plus joli village d’Espagne” (the prettiest village in Spain). The name is thought to be a corruption of Saint Juliana. Our guidebook says it is one of the most picturesque stopping points on the Camino del Norte. It is a cute little town. It is Saturday on a three-day weekend but it is rainy and off-season, still there are a fair number of visitors here. Way more than in the typical village we go through. But no problem getting into the restaurant for lunch or the hotel. The lunch was excellent. A 19 euro menu (the guide book said 26, maybe in the season), one of the best we have had. The hotel is very pretty and old but with modern improvements. It looks like old New Mexico construction. Vigas, etc.
I’ll bet the village is mobbed in the summer months. Last year on the Via Francigena we hardly saw anyone until we got to San Gimignano (the town with all the towers) which was crowded beyond belief. The streets there are lined with souvenir shops. Some here, too, but not too bad.
Santillana has cobblestone streets which are terrible to walk on (see the photos). Many streets have one small strip on the side which is flat but there is a lot of competition for walking there. We grudgingly give way to mothers pushing baby carriages (babies like motion, right?)
I agree with Sartre — it is one of the loveliest villages in Spain. The church, which you can’t miss in such a small place, is well worth a visit.